Threads of Identity: What Emirati Traditional Dress Tells Us
April 24, 2025
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Walk through any part of the UAE, and you'll quickly notice the elegant traditional clothing worn by many Emiratis. Far more than just garments, these outfits are powerful symbols of a rich cultural heritage, deep-rooted identity, and cherished values 
[1]
[4]
[5]. Think of the flowing white Kandura worn by men or the graceful black Abaya donned by women – these aren't costumes, but visible expressions of Emirati life, blending pride, practicality, and tradition [1]
[2][5]. This article dives into the world of Emirati traditional dress, exploring the key pieces for men and women, their significance, how they’re perfectly adapted to the climate, and their place in the modern UAE [1][5]. Get ready to understand the Kandura, Abaya, Ghutra, Sheila, and more [1][2][5].
The Significance of Traditional Emirati Attire
So, why is traditional dress so prevalent and important in the UAE? It's a beautiful tapestry woven from threads of heritage, faith, and identity [1][4][5]. These garments are deeply connected to the UAE's history and Islamic values, serving as a constant, visible reminder of cultural roots [1][4]. Wearing the national dress is a profound expression of cultural identity and national pride for Emiratis, connecting them to their ancestors and their country [1][5]
[6].
Beyond symbolism, there's a practical side, especially given the desert climate [1]. The loose fits and specific materials are ingeniously designed for comfort in the heat [1][5]. You'll see Emiratis wearing their traditional attire not just for grand celebrations or holidays, but as part of their daily lives, seamlessly blending the past with the present [1][5]. It’s a living heritage, worn with dignity and pride [1][5].
Emirati Men's Traditional Dress: Kandura, Ghutra & More
The Kandura (Dishdasha):
This is the star of the show – the primary garment for Emirati men [2]. The Kandura, also known as Dishdasha in some regions, is a crisp, ankle-length robe, instantly recognizable [2][5]. It's typically crafted from lightweight fabrics like cotton, making it ideal for staying cool in the UAE's hot weather [1][2][5]. What makes the Emirati Kandura distinct? Look for the collarless design and the subtle, often matching, embroidery on the sleeves [5]. Another key feature is the 'Al Farukhah,' a long, braided tassel that dangles elegantly from the neckline [5].
While pristine white is the most common and classic color, especially for formal occasions or daily wear, Kanduras also come in shades of brown, beige, and grey [5]. Comfort is key, so men usually wear cool, white cotton shorts and an undershirt beneath the Kandura 
[3]. Whether heading to work, meeting friends, or attending a formal event, the Kandura is a versatile choice [1][5]. If you're curious about cost, a Kandura can range from around 150 AED to 500 AED, depending on the quality of the fabric and the intricacy of the design [3].
Headwear: Ghutra and Shemagh:
No Emirati man's traditional outfit is complete without headwear [1][2]. The Ghutra is the standard headscarf, usually a square or rectangular piece of white cotton cloth with a smooth finish [1][5]. It’s not just for style; it serves the practical purpose of protecting the head and face from the relentless sun and swirling sand [1][5]. You might also see the Shemagh, a variation featuring distinctive red checks on a white background, which has its origins in the central Arabian Peninsula [5].
The Agal (Iqal/Eqal):
How does the Ghutra stay perfectly in place? That's the job of the Agal (also spelled Iqal or Eqal) [1][2][3][5]. This is the black, rope-like cord worn securely on top of the Ghutra [1][2][5]. Traditionally made from tightly woven goat hair, the Emirati Agal often has a unique touch: two cords, known as 'Tarbousha,' hanging down the back [5]. While essential for keeping the Ghutra positioned, the Agal is generally considered part of a more formal look rather than everyday casual wear [5].
The Bisht:
For truly special occasions – think weddings, major religious holidays like Eid, National Day celebrations, or official state functions – Emirati men might wear a Bisht [1]. This is a prestigious outer cloak, often black or brown, and frequently adorned with elaborate gold embroidery along the edges [1]. Worn over the Kandura, the Bisht adds a layer of formality and distinction, often seen on high-ranking officials or the groom at his wedding [1].
Emirati Women's Traditional Dress: Abaya, Sheila & More
The Abaya:
The most iconic garment is undoubtedly the Abaya [1][2]. This is a graceful, loose-fitting, flowing black cloak worn over a woman's regular clothes when in public [1][2][5]. More than just clothing, the Abaya is a powerful symbol of modesty, cultural pride, and adherence to tradition [2][4]. Its loose design is also practical, helping to keep the wearer cool in the warm climate [1]. While classic black remains the most traditional and common color, modern Abayas have evolved [1][2]. Today, you can find them in various colors and cuts, often featuring beautiful embroidery, subtle embellishments, or contrasting fabrics [1][2].
For many Emirati women, wearing the Abaya is a personal choice reflecting values of simplicity and modesty 
[8]. Interestingly, while black is dominant now, historical accounts suggest women wore more colorful garments traditionally, with black becoming more prevalent around the 1950s, possibly due to its practicality in the desert environment [8].
Headwear: The Sheila:
The Abaya is almost always paired with the Sheila, a light, delicate scarf, typically black, draped gracefully over the head [1][2][3]. The primary purpose of the Sheila is to cover the hair, aligning with principles of modesty and tradition [1][4]. Like the men's Ghutra, it also offers practical protection from the sun [1].
Underneath the Abaya: The Jalabiya:
The Burqa:
You might occasionally see some older Emirati women wearing a Burqa, but it's different from the full-body covering seen elsewhere [1][2]. The traditional Emirati Burqa is a distinctive, often metallic-looking facial covering that conceals the nose, brow, and cheeks [1][2]. Historically worn by married women, it signifies respect, tradition, and national identity [1][2]. However, its use has become much less common today, especially among the younger generations [1][2].
Design Meets Climate: Practicality of Emirati Dress
It's clear that traditional Emirati clothing is deeply cultural, but let's talk about how brilliantly it's designed for the local environment [1]. The UAE climate is predominantly hot and sunny, and the national dress reflects centuries of adaptation [1]. The loose fit of both the men's Kandura and the women's Abaya is crucial; it allows air to circulate freely around the body, promoting cooling [1].
Color plays a role too, particularly for men [1]. The preference for white Kanduras isn't just aesthetic; light colors are known to reflect sunlight and absorb less heat compared to darker shades [1]. Furthermore, the traditional head coverings – the Ghutra for men and the Sheila for women – provide essential protection for the head and neck from the intense sun, and also shield the face from dust and sand, especially during windy conditions [1]. Every element seems thoughtfully designed for comfort and practicality in the desert climate [1].
Tradition in Modern Times
In a rapidly modernizing nation like the UAE, how does traditional dress fare? Remarkably well, actually. While global fashion trends certainly have an influence, leading to contemporary variations in cuts, colors, fabrics, and embroidery for both Kanduras and Abayas, the fundamental essence of the garments remains strong [1][2]. These adaptations allow individuals to express personal style while upholding cultural norms [1][2].
Wearing the national dress continues to be a significant symbol of cultural pride and patriotism for Emiratis, especially visible during national holidays, weddings, and formal events [1][6]. It’s a way of staying connected to heritage in a cosmopolitan society [1][6]. For visitors and expats, it's worth noting that while appreciating the traditional attire is encouraged, you are generally not expected to wear it yourself 
[7]. Respecting local customs primarily involves dressing modestly in public spaces [7].
Emirati traditional dress, encompassing the Kandura, Abaya, Ghutra, and Sheila, is far more than clothing; it's a narrative of heritage, faith, and adaptation [1][2][5]. These garments are worn with pride, embodying the identity and values of the Emirati people [1][4][5]. Understanding their significance offers a deeper appreciation for the rich cultural tapestry of the UAE [1][4]. Respecting these traditions is key to navigating the cultural landscape with sensitivity and understanding [1][4].
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